Walking Hadrian’s Wall and Visiting Sycamore Gap: A Birthday Adventure Through History

For my 40th birthday, my partner whisked me away to a shepherd’s hut near Middleton-in-Teesdale.

It’s a beautiful part of the world…

Stretching starry skies.

Wide rolling hills.

It's a landscape that reminds you how small you are in the best possible way.

While we were there, it felt like the perfect opportunity to do something I’d wanted to do for years but somehow never had.

Visit Hadrian's Wall.

I love being outdoors and I love history.

Hadrian’s Wall combines both of those things perfectly.

As luck would have it, the weather was pleasant for most of the weekend apart from the actual day we visited, when we were hit by hail.

Because, of course, this was England in February.

What Is Hadrian’s Wall?

Hadrian’s Wall was ordered by the Roman Emperor Hadrian, and construction began in AD 122.

It stretched roughly 73 miles from the River Tyne in the east to the Solway Firth in the west, marking the north-west frontier of the Roman Empire in Britain.

Part defensive barrier, part customs checkpoint, part giant statement of imperial power, it was built to control movement, trade and taxation.

Nearly 2,000 years later, large sections still snake across the hills of northern England, making it one of the most extraordinary places to walk in the UK.

Starting at Housesteads Roman Fort

We began our day at Housesteads Roman Fort, one of the best-preserved Roman forts in Britain.

Perched dramatically on the Whin Sill escarpment, it offers sweeping views across the Northumberland countryside and a fascinating glimpse into life on the edge of the Roman Empire.

Around 800 soldiers were stationed here nearly two millennia ago.

Standing among the ruins, it’s surprisingly easy to imagine the noise of boots on stone, the smoke from cooking fires, and the constant watchfulness of frontier life.

We explored the museum, wandered through the remains of the fort, and then set off along the wall towards Sycamore Gap.

Sycamore Gap and the Robin Hood Tree

The walk itself is breathtaking.

But it also had a strange but wonderful feeling that you are quite literally walking in the footsteps of history.

As we climbed and descended over the rugged landscape, I found myself thinking about the Roman soldiers who once patrolled these same hills.

What were they thinking?

Did they miss home?

Did they stare out across the landscape, wondering what lay beyond the horizon?

It felt strangely humbling.

The Sycamore Gap became famous after appearing in Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves, which was one of my favourite films when I was younger.

I can remember listening to (Everything I Do) I Do It for You by Bryan Adams on my CD Walkman on constant repeat.

The tree itself stood for well over a century and became one of the most photographed trees in Britain.

In September 2023, it was illegally cut down in an act that shocked people across the country and far beyond.

I wasn’t prepared for how emotional I would feel standing there.

At first, I felt quite angry.

Not just because a beautiful tree had been destroyed, but because trees are living witnesses.

If you know me, you’ll know how much of my life, both work and personally, is based around my love of trees (see my work here)…

They hold stories, seasons and memories.

They ask for very little and give us so much.

Oxygen.

Shelter.

Beauty.

Perspective.

But as I stood there looking at the site, my feelings shifted.

Because from the remaining stump, new shoots were emerging.

Fresh green growth… Life was continuing.

A beautiful reminder that nature is far more resilient than we often give it credit for.

And perhaps that’s one of the most powerful lessons trees offer us.

You can be cut down and still find a way to grow again.

Thoughts on History and Identity on Hadrian’s Wall

On the walk back to Housesteads, the weather turned...

And we were being pelted with hailstones.

It was freezing, slightly ridiculous, but also weirdly perfect.

Because if you’re going to walk along Hadrian’s Wall in February, a bit of dramatic weather feels entirely appropriate.

Walking the wall also sparked bigger thoughts about history and identity.

I don’t agree with invasion or war.

The Roman occupation of Britain brought violence and disruption, as all empires do.

But history is rarely simple.

The Romans introduced remarkable engineering and innovations, including:

• Roads that still influence our transport routes today

• Sophisticated bathhouses and sanitation systems

• Underfloor heating (hypocausts)

• Aqueducts and advanced water management

• Written records that help us understand the past

At the same time, Britain was far from uncivilised before the Romans arrived.

The Celtic people already had rich spiritual traditions, skilled metalwork, complex social structures and a deep relationship with the land.

Their world was less urban but no less sophisticated.

Much of that indigenous culture was absorbed, altered, or lost over time.

But happily, I feel like those older ways are slowly returning.

More and more people are questioning relentless productivity.

Seeking connection, spending time in nature, honouring seasonal rhythms.

Looking for a way of living that feels more human and less mechanical.

In that sense, perhaps the old stories are not gone after all.

They’re just waiting to be remembered.

Why Walking Hadrian’s Wall Was One of My Favourite Things to Do at 40

This trip had everything I love…

• Beautiful landscapes

• Ancient history

• Long walks

• Tree wisdom

• Unexpected emotional moments

• A healthy dose of British weather

It reminded me that some experiences are worth waiting for.

And that walking through a place can be far more powerful than simply reading about it.

Hadrian’s Wall is not just a historical monument.

It’s a place where nature, history and reflection come together.

And that made it a very worthy addition to my 40 Things To Do at 40 list.

If you want to see a little video of me walking the wall, then you can catch it here.

And if you’d like to explore it yourself, starting at Housesteads Roman Fort is a fantastic option.

From there, you can walk to Sycamore Gap and experience one of the most iconic stretches of the wall.

You can find visitor information and walking routes on the National Trust Hadrian’s Wall page.

If you love history, walking, and landscapes that make your heart do a little somersault, I can’t recommend it highly enough.